Aix-en-Provence

Narrow streets take us back to the medieval city of René d’Anjou; lively cafés on the Mirabeau bridge where leisurely pedestrians and stylishly dressed young women stroll; sun-kissed fountains which murmur to the song of the cicada… it's so pleasant to just take your time in Aix-en-Provence!

Visiting the market town of Saint-Sauveur is like going back through the centuries. This backbone of the 'City of Archbishops' has its own treasures to reveal: can you find all the oratory niches hidden away in alcoves? Don't miss the historic cathedral, previously frequented by Cézanne: 'I'm going for my slice of the Middle Ages' (Market, Place Richelme), he would say. A little peckish? Drop in at the lively Halle aux Grains market nearby and try the variety of honeys on offer.

Those who visit Aix must take a walk along the Cours Mirabeau, a lovely, wide and shady avenue, lined with fountains: doubtless one of the liveliest spots in the city. Look up and enjoy the beautifully decorated facades of the elegant city dwellings on either side of the street; or stop for a photo of the grand La Rotonde fountain, a popular meeting place for the inhabitants of Aix. Thirsty? Take a break at '2 G' (Les Deux Garçons, 53, cours Mirabeau), where Paul Cézanne and Émile Zola used to put the world to rights.

Cézanne lived his whole life in Aix. An exhibition dedicated to the artist at the Musée Granet is the first stop, before setting off to discover his secret hideaways: start with a visit to the Maison du Jas, an elegant Provencal cottage where the artist painted 36 of his works, before heading off to the Lauvres studio where he perfected his famous painting 'The Bathers' (Les Grandes Baigneuses). Continue your visit with the Carrières de Bibémus quarries, the 'open-air palace' where the painter would draw inspiration for hours on end. Gourmet idea: try a 'calisson', confectionery made of iced marzipan at Léonard's, (Léonard Parli, 35 av. Victor-Hugo) a few streets away.

Tip: Mozart, Wagner, Stavinsky… famous composers who provide some of the music at the international opera festival in Aix-en-Provence in July. Opera lovers are advised to book well in advance...

 

Roques-Haute is the starting point of a very attractive trail to the green Marbre valley that can be completed on foot or mountain bike. Stop off at Sainte Victoire house in Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon, where dinosaur eggs are waiting to be discovered. Pleasure seekers will enjoy a visit to the Palette cellars (La cave de Palette, 1016, av. Paul-Jullien).

When you reach the Col des Portes pass, you're on the 'back' of Sainte Victoire. Discover a broad plateau sprinkled with thyme and wild rose bushes as far as the Bimont dam, and the wonderful view over the emerald blue lake. Amateur astronomers can get closer to the stars at the Vauvenargue Observatory (Observatoire de Vauvenargues, 1185, chemin du Puits-d’Auzon).

The writer's birthplace, which still houses family portraits, is the starting point of a pleasant visit to the old centre. Take a stroll from the upper part, where the road either goes up or down but is rarely flat, to the attractively coloured lower part of town. Here you can have fun discovering the Pagnol universe in miniature with the reconstruction of his work in 200 or more ornamental figures. Time for a drink before dinner? Enjoy an organic pastis (Distillerie Janot, 304, rue du Dirigeable).

Tip: Escape from the heat at Saint-Pons, in Sainte-Baume. A great place to cool down, where ash, chestnut and cedar trees line the stunning waterfall of the Torrent du Fauge. A refreshing break in the country.